Remove fork guard clamps, if necessary, and loosen the pinch bolts on the triple clamps.īefore removing the fork from the bike, loosen - don't remove - the fork cap (you'll need a fork cap wrench). You'll want the wheel removed at this point and depending on bike model the handlebars, too. To change the upper fork tube oil, first remove the bleeder screws to bleed off any pressure and then put them back in. Regardless of whether you wait until the seals leak or follow the recommended intervals, fork oil eventually requires changing just like motor oil and here is a general overview of how it's done on spring forks: Upper Fork TubeĬhanging the oil in the upper fork tube is pretty straight forward and the most common application towards routine fork maintenance, as long as the seals remain intact. Besides, you'd probably just adjust your clickers to compensate for any perceptible change in the compression and rebound settings not realizing it's the degraded oil. Old fork oil does affect your suspension but it often goes unnoticed. Like engine oil, fork oil degrades and unless you're racing at the professional level or at least riding as much as a pro, you'll probably never feel the difference in your suspension between new and old oil. Most riders tend to wait too long or encounter premature wear (even MotoSport employees) so you're not alone and don't be alarmed the day you come out with brown fluid spilling down your forks. Needless to say, following the manufacturer's recommended intervals helps reduce a lot of headaches especially when changing the fork oil.Ĭhanging the fork or suspension oil on a dirt bike is not a complicated task but once the seals begin leaking you've got to replace the oil, seals and bushings which requires a bit more technical prowess. Hopefully you already bought the replacement parts otherwise ride day can wait.
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